All texts and photo's copyright Tim Biot 2007
Tim Biot Portfolio: Beggars: http://www.timbiot-beggars.blogspot.com/
The Beauty and Wisdom of our World: http://www.tim-biot.blogspot.com/
Travel Photography: www.lightstalkers.org/tim_biot
Images of the World: www.lightstalkers.org/timbiot
New Zealand Landscapes: www.lightstalkers.org/timbiot_nz
INTRODUCTION
Last winter I travelled over land from Istanbul to Delhi through Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan and India.
I left rather unprepared and there were some safety concerns, but I usually received a very warm welcome wherever I arrived and felt generally quite safe. There were some exceptions in Afghanistan and Pakistan where I was lucky to get away unscated.
I enjoyed an astonishing mix of gorgeous landscapes, wonderful people and fabulous historical sites.
Between the Nemrut Dagi and the Jamah Masjid in Old Delhi I was met with the beautiful greeting 'salaam aleykum' (peace be upon you). All men wore either a modest muslim cap, a dirty handkerchief or an exuberant 15 meter long turban. The women were generally hidden behind various types of robes, ranging from a simple headscarf to a black chador or burka that reavels nothing.
The food was terrible. The menu consisted mainly of mutton and chicken. Vegetables were scarce during the cold winter months. Being a vegetarian in these countries, I lost a lot of weight.
Overall, it was, of course, the best trip of my life...
TURKEY
Turkey is not one of my favourite countries, but surely one of the most interesting ones I have ever visited. Turkey's patrimonium is truly mind boggling. At the crossroads between Europe and Asia since Marco Polo's days, Turkey has more historical remains than you can poke a stick at, ranging from grand Greek amphitheatres, Roman, Lycian rockgraves and magnificent sites dating back from the Byzantine and Ottoman period.
I had been to Turkey several times before and on this visit I wanted to dicover south - east Anatolia, the Eastern part of the country where the Kurds live in the mountains.
Istanbul
I will never get tired of Istanbul. Although Turkey has become a fast moving and rapidly changing country, it's biggest city will never lose it's charm.
Within walking distance of the Bosphorus are the Aya Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the bazaar. And that's just for starters.
The capital of ancient Byzantium and the Eastern Roman Empire, Istanbul has historical sites to spare. It's never too busy in the old part of the city, the people are welcoming and the only reason for me to leave are the high tourist prices.
The minarets and dome of a mosque in the old part of Istanbul.
The airport was close by and every 3 minutes or so an airplane flew passed. I included one in the picture, adding a contrasting element to this otherwise timeless image.
These children were quite surprised to see a tall foreigner photographing their home.
Within walking distance of the Bosphorus are the Aya Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the bazaar. And that's just for starters.
The capital of ancient Byzantium and the Eastern Roman Empire, Istanbul has historical sites to spare. It's never too busy in the old part of the city, the people are welcoming and the only reason for me to leave are the high tourist prices.
The minarets and dome of a mosque in the old part of Istanbul.The airport was close by and every 3 minutes or so an airplane flew passed. I included one in the picture, adding a contrasting element to this otherwise timeless image.
These children were quite surprised to see a tall foreigner photographing their home.
Anatolia
I had been to Turkey 3 times before, but it wasn't until I visited Anatolia that I got to know the 'real' Turkey. Away from the tourists and the country that desperately wants to become an EU member, this is a very different Turkey that one usually sees. Here is poverty, the land is arid and barren, life is harsh. Not surprisingly, this is where the Kurds live. They are the largest minority in the world and still without their own nation. Spread over Turkey, Syria, Iraq and Iran, they are being persecuted and discriminated.
Anatolia is the Turkey for the backpacker, the traveller who wants more than resorts, beaches and nightclubs.
Haran is an old village on the Syrian border that boasts the oldest university of the world, some ancient ruins and dozens of cone shaped houses. These funny looking structures were built many years ago to cope with the extreme differences in temperature and to store food and other supplies. Today they are being used as storage rooms, some are still inhabited.A few days prior to my visit, Saddam Hussein was hanged. This is an area that is quite conservative and religious. The anti - Western sentiments ran high after Saddam's execution and I was being accused of being American by some villagers. Even when I denied this (I am Belgian), they pressed on that I was American and directed their anger and frustration at me. I was lucky to get away unharmed.
The only other time I was in direct danger on this trip was in Peshawar where I got in trouble for photographing a woman.
Winter landscape - on the way to the Iranian border.
Hosap Castle in far East Anatolia was one of the mightiest sites on my trip. This impenetrable fortress is built on a mighty cliff and domanites the surrounding hills and valleys, all covered under a glistering white carpet.This photograph was taken from the little village that lies at the foot of the castle.
IRAN
The best memories I brought back from this journey are from Iran.
The interesting historical sites from ancient Persia and before, the beautiful winter landscapes and the stunning mosques all left a strong impression on me.
But it was the people who delighted me the most. The Iranians are a truly wonderful people who open their heart as easily as they smile and who take hospitality as a matter of duty and honour.
They are all too eager to rid themselves of the image that the Ayotallah's have created for Iran and are ready to step into the world. They have enough of conflict and desire progress and peace. But the government, still strongly influenced by the powerful islamic clergy allows very little freedom and opportunities for the people, especially in the more conservative religious cities.
Thousands of people, young and old, lie burried at the Martyr's Cemetery in Esfahan, one of many burial places for people who died in the war against Iraq. Most were not professional soldiers and were 'encouraged' to fight a jihad against the sinners of Iraq, who of course, were muslims themselves.The picture below was taken in a mosque in Orumiye, where the night before there had been a celebration of the local war heroes who had died in the war against Iraq. All over the country these martyrs are celebrated and portaied as heroes by the imams and the government (see picture above). By popularizing martyrdom, Iran issures itself of a healthy dose of fresh people who are willing to give their life should the need arise. I met several men who were talking about taking up the jihad against president Bush and fully expecting to wage war against the US. Most people, who are more modern and not so much under the influence of the Sharia or religieus powerhouse are more moderate and scolded the act of brainwashing innocent peope and sending them to a futile war.
The West
I spent my first couple of days travelling through Western Iran, visiting mosques and a mountain village. Nothing special. I mostly remember the freezing cold.
This was one of the first pictures I took in Iran. I was attracted by the strange presence of this bride's dress in the middle of the street, more so because the only women I saw were wearing a chador.
Tabriz.
This was one of the first pictures I took in Iran. I was attracted by the strange presence of this bride's dress in the middle of the street, more so because the only women I saw were wearing a chador.
Tabriz.
Esfahan
Esfahan is a highlight on any trip to Iran. You could easily spend a week here and still come back later to see all the sites you had missed before and be enchanted all over again by this wonderful town.
Imam Square is the second largest square in the world, but surely the most beautiful, with 2 stunning old mosques, a gorgeous palace and a traditional bustling bazaar surrounding it.
Imam Square.
Imam Square is the second largest square in the world, but surely the most beautiful, with 2 stunning old mosques, a gorgeous palace and a traditional bustling bazaar surrounding it.
Imam Square.Shiraz
The true Persian heart of the nation, Shiraz is the place where poetry, roses and nightingales were born.Everyone from a bank manager to a street vendot can recite the verses of the Great Persian poets. Even in winter, roses flower in the many parks and gardens. And all over the city you hear the beautiful melody of the nightingales on the streets.
Street artist selling calligraphy.
Persepolis is probably Iran's most famous archeological site. It's an old palace that was built only for ceremonial purposes and was only used once a year.
Street artist selling calligraphy.
Persepolis is probably Iran's most famous archeological site. It's an old palace that was built only for ceremonial purposes and was only used once a year.
Yazd
Yazd was my favourite place in Iran. The old city is truly magnificent. Around the incredible Great Mosque with its soaring minarets are hundreds of little alleyways spreading out in all directions where you get hopelessly lost and where you involuntarily bump into old mansions, mosques and other historical buildings.
Yazd is also famous for its badgirs, windtowers who were/are being used to cool a house or building; the airconditioning of the ancient Persian world.
Praying at the Great Mosque in the old city.
My next and last stop in Iran was Mashad, Iran's holiest city where Iman Reza is buried and where day and night tens of thousands of pilgrims pay their respects to this martyr of islam. I wasn't allowed to photograph inside.
Yazd is also famous for its badgirs, windtowers who were/are being used to cool a house or building; the airconditioning of the ancient Persian world.
Praying at the Great Mosque in the old city.My next and last stop in Iran was Mashad, Iran's holiest city where Iman Reza is buried and where day and night tens of thousands of pilgrims pay their respects to this martyr of islam. I wasn't allowed to photograph inside.
AFGHANISTAN
A week before my entry into Afghanistan there were news reports of a Taliban insurgency. Two Germans were kidnapped and later released by the Taliban, fights had broken out in Herat and people were kidnapped as far as the Iranian border.
The Taliban had called for a new uprising against the foreign troops and declared the following months the bloodiest to come thus far in the war against the West.
Not really knowing what to expect, I set out with only one goal in mind: to arrive in Pakistan in 1 piece. I had hoped to stay for 2 weeks and visit the main cities plus to make a short trip into the mountains.
It turned out quite unlike I had hoped. Afghanistan was the most expensive country on my trip and I was forced to leave sooner than expected. Accommodation was very pricy and due to safety regulations I was forced to fly between Herat and Kabul. I didn't manage to see a great deal of the country, but it turned out that my timing was perfect. I seemed to keep one step ahead of danger as I made my way across the country. The day after I flew out of Herat there was a bomb attack at Herat airport. Just days after my departure a few British helicopters were shot down, the Taliban had taken control of their second town and Afghanistan had yet another war on their hands.
Beside the element of danger, Afghanistan was very intruiging, endlessly romantic and tragically desperate. There was the beauty of Herat, the sweetness of the people and the heartbreaking poverty and misery. There was the presence of so many alien forces that looked so out of place in this country where time seemed to have stopped ages ago. An alien presence that's there because they see profit in a country where people still die of contaminated water. A country that has fought so many wars and is faced with yet another conflict, driving millions ever deeper into poverty and despair.
Herat
I didn't know what to expect of Afghanistan. I didn't have any plans, information or a guidebook.
I ended up in a friendly hotel and met a young man who spoke some English and showed me around the city. Together we visited the fort, some mausolea of famous philosophers and poets, the mosque and a shrine where people come to ask Allah to cure a disease, bless them with a child or oust a demon.
Herat turned out to be a delightful city littered with historical sites, many of them still in use, and friendly hospitable people.
I attracted a lot of attention and it was difficult to take natural photo's of men. Whenever they saw me, and I stood out quite a bit, all hope for an unposed picture was lost. More often than not I was spotted long before I could point my camera. But luckily the men were all too eager to be photographed and posed pictures can have a charm and intimity all of their own.
This photograph was taken at the market around Herat fort. I was quite surprised how easily the women could be photographed. Some ran off when they saw my camera, but most simply ignored me. I had to work quickly and unsuspectitly, because the women (and me) could get in trouble if they were found to be photographed.
There are shops that sell these type of clothes everywhere, but the only women you see on the street our covered head to toe in a burka. But at least women are not obliged to cover themselves completely by law and can buy whatever clothes they want. Although the Taliban are not in power anymore, their influence on society remains strong and many people still fear them.
I ended up in a friendly hotel and met a young man who spoke some English and showed me around the city. Together we visited the fort, some mausolea of famous philosophers and poets, the mosque and a shrine where people come to ask Allah to cure a disease, bless them with a child or oust a demon.
Herat turned out to be a delightful city littered with historical sites, many of them still in use, and friendly hospitable people.
I attracted a lot of attention and it was difficult to take natural photo's of men. Whenever they saw me, and I stood out quite a bit, all hope for an unposed picture was lost. More often than not I was spotted long before I could point my camera. But luckily the men were all too eager to be photographed and posed pictures can have a charm and intimity all of their own.
This photograph was taken at the market around Herat fort. I was quite surprised how easily the women could be photographed. Some ran off when they saw my camera, but most simply ignored me. I had to work quickly and unsuspectitly, because the women (and me) could get in trouble if they were found to be photographed.
There are shops that sell these type of clothes everywhere, but the only women you see on the street our covered head to toe in a burka. But at least women are not obliged to cover themselves completely by law and can buy whatever clothes they want. Although the Taliban are not in power anymore, their influence on society remains strong and many people still fear them.
Kabul
After the cultural splendours and friendly atmosphere of Herat, Kabul came as a bit of a shock to me. The grotty city was covered by snowy mud and hung under a dirty mist. The people were rather anxious and the large military presence turned the city into a war zone. The soldiers looked weary and had a distressed look in their eyes. They had been away from home for too long and had seen things they hadn't expect to see.
I came across this playground on the outskirts of Kabul. I thought the playing children and tank symbolized 2 opposing realities that exist in modern day Afghanistan.
After the fall of the Taliban regime, music, normal clothes, posters and everything else that had been banned was taken out again and women went back to working in hospitals, hairdresser's and beauty saloons.
In front of this saloon were a handful of elderly women and their children begging on the side of the road, another reminder of the 2 very different faces of Afghanistan.
I came across this playground on the outskirts of Kabul. I thought the playing children and tank symbolized 2 opposing realities that exist in modern day Afghanistan. 
After the fall of the Taliban regime, music, normal clothes, posters and everything else that had been banned was taken out again and women went back to working in hospitals, hairdresser's and beauty saloons.In front of this saloon were a handful of elderly women and their children begging on the side of the road, another reminder of the 2 very different faces of Afghanistan.
Jalalabad
I arrived late at night in Jalalabad and ended up in a 'real Afghani' hotel; a building consisting of 4 stories of floors with tiny cubicles with a musty mattrass on the floor and a smelly blanket. For the first time in Afghanistan I slept cheaply.
I spent one day in this town, visiting the refugee camp and market, before making my way to Pakistan through the Khyber Pass.
I spent one day in this town, visiting the refugee camp and market, before making my way to Pakistan through the Khyber Pass.
PAKISTAN
I left Pakistan with mixed feelings. On the one hand I was impressed by the natural beauty of the Hindu Kush and the kindness of many of the people I met. Peshawar was intruiging and Lahore interesting. On the other hand I was distressed by the way women were treated, in the more conservative areas they are reduced to human-producing factories that are being locked away in their homes. When they are outside, they are often covered in a burka and not allowed any contact with strange men. A glance at another man can result in severe punishment from the husband or his family, sometimes even lead to death. Women are being burned alive for what we would see as mundane occurances, such as not being submissive enough. It was hard to stay open minded and accepting of this culture, when everywhere I looked, half of the population was seriously discriminated and mistreated. Many government policies are appalling and corruption runs high on all levels. In many ways, people still live accoding to barbaric and mediaeval laws and conducts.
Peshawar
I arrived in Pakistan at Peshawar, the lawless capital of the lawless North West Frontier Province. It's a dangerous and intruiging city that's ruled by warlords and where gunshops and illegal alcohol and drugs businesses are found next to clothes and food stalls. It's a place where you look over your shoulder once and a while and where you don't want to step on the wrong man's toes.
A few weeks before I got there, I saw on the news that a suicide bomber had killed 20 people at the Peshawar police headquarters. A young man who lived in Peshawar told me the story and showed me the site of the occurence. The 2nd police commander had ordered a crackdown in the smuggler's bazaar and had demolished a handful of shops that sold illegal goods. The local warlord retaliated and sent a suicide attacker into the police station, who blew himself and 20 others up, including the commander.
The Pakistanis love movies and adore their movie heroes, often Bollywood actors. The popular movies are generally a loud and colourful mix of violence, dance and censored romance.
When I saw this wall at a photoshop I knew there was a dynamic picture to be taken. All I needed was a 'real' person to complete the scene. This young man was all too happy to pose for me.
A few weeks before I got there, I saw on the news that a suicide bomber had killed 20 people at the Peshawar police headquarters. A young man who lived in Peshawar told me the story and showed me the site of the occurence. The 2nd police commander had ordered a crackdown in the smuggler's bazaar and had demolished a handful of shops that sold illegal goods. The local warlord retaliated and sent a suicide attacker into the police station, who blew himself and 20 others up, including the commander.
The Pakistanis love movies and adore their movie heroes, often Bollywood actors. The popular movies are generally a loud and colourful mix of violence, dance and censored romance.
When I saw this wall at a photoshop I knew there was a dynamic picture to be taken. All I needed was a 'real' person to complete the scene. This young man was all too happy to pose for me.
The Mountains
The north of Pakistan is a truly wild region, with proud and fiery Pashtuns, wild stories and wild landscapes. Both Genghis Khan and Alexander the Great passed through here. It's still a dangerous area where Taliban and islamic fundamentalists alike hide in the mountains under the protection of local war lords. The government has little or no control here, especially in the North West Frontier Province which lies on the smuggler's route between China and Afghanistan.
I took a minibus from Peshawar to Mardan, a small town in the foothills of the mountains 60 km north of Peshawar. It was my first experience with Pakistani transport in the mountains and one I won't forget lightly. In Asia they generally pack up their buses with as many passengers as possible, but in Pakistan they take this a bit further than usual. I was sitting with my knees up to my chin, unable to move an inch, my backpack on my lap and with 2 smelly men's faces a mere 10 cm away from my own. And then they squeezed in a few more people. It took us over 5 hours to cover the 60 km. Every busride I took over the next 2 weeks travelling through the Hindu Kush was similar, if not worse.
Two scenes from the Hindu Hush, photographed around little mountain villages.
After 2 weeks I left the mountains at Abbottabad.I noticed this advertisement board and was hoping something would add to it's appeal. Suddenly a man took position under the woman's finger, a car stopped in exactly the right position to show the old man sitting on the pavement behind it. I had time enough to snap just one picture before the car drove off and the man walked away.
The Capital
Although very different, Islamabad and Rawalpindi together could be counted as Pakistan's capital as they are nearly joined together.
Islamabad is a planned city and very orderly and sterile. It couldn't interest me much and I only visited the Shah Faisal Mosque which looks more like a giant space station than a muslim place for worship. It's huge and can accommodate over 70.000 faithful.
Rawalpindi is hectic, faded and has lots of character.
I took this picture in a side street in Rawalpindi. I like the scene and the old feel it has to it.
I spent half a day walking around the archeological sites of Taxila, the remains of the Buddhist civilisation of Gandhara, but couldn't find a decent shot. Then, on my way back I came across this beautiful old tree. Minutes later this rather comical duo passed by and I had my picture for the day.
Islamabad is a planned city and very orderly and sterile. It couldn't interest me much and I only visited the Shah Faisal Mosque which looks more like a giant space station than a muslim place for worship. It's huge and can accommodate over 70.000 faithful.
Rawalpindi is hectic, faded and has lots of character.
I took this picture in a side street in Rawalpindi. I like the scene and the old feel it has to it.
I spent half a day walking around the archeological sites of Taxila, the remains of the Buddhist civilisation of Gandhara, but couldn't find a decent shot. Then, on my way back I came across this beautiful old tree. Minutes later this rather comical duo passed by and I had my picture for the day.
Lahore
Lahore is Pakistan's cultural capital. It's more liberal, hardly any women wear a burqa, and it has a lot of interesting historical sites to keep you busy for a few days.
Badshahi Mosque lies in the parklike grounds of the wonderful Lahore Fort in the old city. It's one of the largest mosques in the world which can hold 100.000 people.
This is the last photo I took in Pakistan. A few minutes later it was too dark to photograph and the next day I was on my way to India.
Badshahi Mosque lies in the parklike grounds of the wonderful Lahore Fort in the old city. It's one of the largest mosques in the world which can hold 100.000 people.
This is the last photo I took in Pakistan. A few minutes later it was too dark to photograph and the next day I was on my way to India.
INDIA
This was my fourth visit to India and by far the most exciting. For me, the Himalaya's are surely the most beautiful part of India. As soon as you reach the mountains, you leave the dust, chaos and noise of the rest of India behind and you enter into a world of fresh air, a calm pace and stunning scenery.
The last leg of my journey was through Rajasthan, India's most colourful state. You simply step into a fairytale when you travel in this desert state. Vibrant colours, mysterious temples, grand palaces, wonderful cities, quaint villages and the most interesting looking people you'll meet anywhere in this already fascinating country.
Amritsar
I crossed the border into Indian Punjab at Attari, where I witnessed the electrifying border ceremony. On either side of the border gate the Indian and Pakistani guards engage in a pompous ceremony that is cheered on by thousands of patriots. The guards march towards the gate, trying to out-stomp and
out-scowl each other, they shake hands and lower the flags, all the while being accompanied by the cheers and screams from over 10.000 mad Indians and Pakistani.
I moved on to Amritsar to visit the Golden Temple.
The Golden temple is Sikhism's holiest place and attracts thousands of pilgrims from all over the world. The stunning temple is build from 750 kg of pure gold and marble. It's one of India's most splendid structures.
Sikhs worship their 10 guru's and the Guru Granth Sahib, their holy book. During the day the book is taken out to display and priests read continuously from copies.
People bath themselves in the holy waters of the lake and accept prasad, holy food prepared by the priests.
out-scowl each other, they shake hands and lower the flags, all the while being accompanied by the cheers and screams from over 10.000 mad Indians and Pakistani.
I moved on to Amritsar to visit the Golden Temple.
The Golden temple is Sikhism's holiest place and attracts thousands of pilgrims from all over the world. The stunning temple is build from 750 kg of pure gold and marble. It's one of India's most splendid structures.Sikhs worship their 10 guru's and the Guru Granth Sahib, their holy book. During the day the book is taken out to display and priests read continuously from copies.
People bath themselves in the holy waters of the lake and accept prasad, holy food prepared by the priests.
Himalaya
It was a true blessing to leave the chaotic and turbulent cities of the dusty Punjab plains behind me and get into the beautiful mountains of the Himalaya's. During my 3 week stay I visited the more touristy places and some lesser known towns and villages. Everywhere I was welcomed warmly and I spent as much time talking to strangers who invited me in their home or shop, than I was travelling around. I met Tibetan refugees in Dharamsala, got stoned by sitting in the tiny room that 4 ganja - smoking saddhu's shared in Mandi (I don't smoke myself, but I smoked passively and their drugs were so strong that I left the room probably more stoned than they were, it took me nearly 2 hours to find the way to my hotel again - many men smoke ganja in India and the'holy men' are usually no exception) and joined the religious festival near Renuka Lake. Rishikesh was probably my favourite spot. A town with as many temples as there are holy cows, set against a backdrop of the mighty Himalaya Range. It is here that the Ganges, India's holiest river, colours a magic turquoise. I spent many hours watching the people make offerings to the River Goddess, bath themselves and wash away their sins in the clear blue waters.
Rajasthan
Rajasthan is India's most colourful and imaginative state. A land of legends, maharaja's, magical forts and gorgeous cities.
The pace is slower. The landscape arid and beautiful. The people are friendly and come straight out of a Rudyard Kipling novel.
During my last 2 weeks I was accompanied by my friend Toon who joined me on my trip through Rajasthan.
"Happy Holi!"
This is what everyone shouts at each other during the Holi festival of the brahmin class, marking the start of the summer season. For a few days India is transformed into a state of colourful chaos and happy anarchy (well, just a bit more than usual). There is music and dancing on the streets, a lot of drunken men (a bit of female tourist squeezing) and everybody gets drenched in bright coloured water and covered head to toe in yellow, pink and orange powder.
Jaisalmer is one of my favourite places in India. Dubbed the Golden City because of it's glowing sandstone buildings, many dating back many centuries, it's a place where you can let your imagination soar. The town lies in the middle of the desert and is dominated by the awesome Jaisalmer Fort, perched on a hill and one of the few walled forts that are still inhabited. It's a fairy tale world of interesting temples, small alleyways, a gorgeous palace and countless splendid havelis (traditional mansions). The friendly locals come straight out of an Ali Baba story and their clothes are as colourful as their smiles are warm.
Toon and I spent 2 days riding a motorbike through the desert, visiting small villages and even here getting covered in colourful powder.
We slept under the stars in these beautiful sand dunes. The moonlight was so bright we kept waking up all night.
I woke at dawn and took this picture just after sunrise.
True Blue. It's only when looking down on the Blue City from the magnificent Meherangarh Fort that you can truly appreciate Jodhpur's striking blueness.
These children were all too happy to pose in their very blue home.
Jaisalmer is really a golden city, Jodhpur is very much blue and Jaipur is truly pink - but I didn't see why Udaipur is called the White City. It wasn't the whiteness of the buildings that appealed to me, but the quiet winding lanes around the beautitiful lake which is dotted with islands and castles and backed by a postcard perfect vista of mountains.
I found these interesting faces at the jain temple.
Pushkar is a small desert town built around a magical lake that is surrounded by 400 Hindu temples. At any given time of day you will find dozens of pilgrims bathing in the holy waters or making offerings to their gods.
This lady was about to enter the bathing ghats.
The pace is slower. The landscape arid and beautiful. The people are friendly and come straight out of a Rudyard Kipling novel.
During my last 2 weeks I was accompanied by my friend Toon who joined me on my trip through Rajasthan.
"Happy Holi!"This is what everyone shouts at each other during the Holi festival of the brahmin class, marking the start of the summer season. For a few days India is transformed into a state of colourful chaos and happy anarchy (well, just a bit more than usual). There is music and dancing on the streets, a lot of drunken men (a bit of female tourist squeezing) and everybody gets drenched in bright coloured water and covered head to toe in yellow, pink and orange powder.
Jaisalmer is one of my favourite places in India. Dubbed the Golden City because of it's glowing sandstone buildings, many dating back many centuries, it's a place where you can let your imagination soar. The town lies in the middle of the desert and is dominated by the awesome Jaisalmer Fort, perched on a hill and one of the few walled forts that are still inhabited. It's a fairy tale world of interesting temples, small alleyways, a gorgeous palace and countless splendid havelis (traditional mansions). The friendly locals come straight out of an Ali Baba story and their clothes are as colourful as their smiles are warm.
Toon and I spent 2 days riding a motorbike through the desert, visiting small villages and even here getting covered in colourful powder.We slept under the stars in these beautiful sand dunes. The moonlight was so bright we kept waking up all night.
I woke at dawn and took this picture just after sunrise.
True Blue. It's only when looking down on the Blue City from the magnificent Meherangarh Fort that you can truly appreciate Jodhpur's striking blueness.These children were all too happy to pose in their very blue home.
Jaisalmer is really a golden city, Jodhpur is very much blue and Jaipur is truly pink - but I didn't see why Udaipur is called the White City. It wasn't the whiteness of the buildings that appealed to me, but the quiet winding lanes around the beautitiful lake which is dotted with islands and castles and backed by a postcard perfect vista of mountains.I found these interesting faces at the jain temple.
Pushkar is a small desert town built around a magical lake that is surrounded by 400 Hindu temples. At any given time of day you will find dozens of pilgrims bathing in the holy waters or making offerings to their gods.This lady was about to enter the bathing ghats.
Delhi
14 Weeks after leaving Istanbul I arrived at the Indian capital, the final stop of my journey.I decided to stay north of Delhi with the Tibetan refugees in the Tibetan Colony, away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist areas.
One morning I woke to this view from my balcony. The whole world was covered in a blanket of thick mist...
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